American Cheese Is Wylie Dufresne’s Kryptonite
The New York Times recently exposed all fancypants chefs for the processed food-loving hypocrites that they are. Okay, just kidding. But for all the locavore-obsessed, organic, farmer’s market-fresh produce we’re guilted into consuming because it’s good for us, chefs can’t deny their occasional cravings for Wonder Bread, Skippy Peanut Butter, and, in Wylie Dufresne‘s case, American cheese. (Land O’ Lakes, please. Leave the Kraft at home.)
“It’s actually a fuller life to try all that stuff. I would rather not be pious about things,” said Wylie of allowing the odd, supermarket brand, mass-produced snack into his diet.
“I like all cheese, but my guiltiest pleasure is definitely American cheese,” he admitted. “We have it in the restaurant all the time. The guys know that they need to stock Land O’Lakes American, or Chef will not be pleased. I’ve got probably four five-pound blocks of it in my walk-in right now. I’m constantly snacking on it.”
One of his favorite uses for the squares of waxy goodness when he worked for Jean-Georges Vongerichten at The Bellagio in Las Vegas was as a vessel for steak tartar. “American cheese is the perfect soft taco,” he explained, dishing that he would fold a slice in half and shmear some tartar in the middle for a perfect high/low-brow cheeseburger-esque bite.
We’re oddly fascinated by this quirky snack choice and think it needs to become someone’s obscenely-priced menu item ASAP. Just a suggestion.