Andrew Zimmern Blames Tyrannical Tasting Menus On Diners Who Exalt Spike Mendelson As ‘A Great Chef’
Andrew Zimmern’s podcast Go Fork Yourself is back for 2013 with an all-new season, and the first topic he and his co-host Molly Mogren tackled, natch, was Corby Kummer’s ”Tyrannical Tasting Menus” piece in Vanity Fair.
Molly scoffed, “Literally I can’t imagine a snobbier article ever written,” while Andrew both defended some parts and cut down others. Let it be known that Kummer is one of his favorite food writers, but Zimmern has no qualms taking him on over whether, as Kummer claims, chefs are to blame for the power shift in restaurants from diner to chef. Says AZ:
“I don’t doubt that the balance of power was shifted from diner to chef, but the people who do that are the insanely rabid food fans that overly fetishize all the other chefs who are in that category below Adria and Keller…The shift in the balance of power from diner to chef is because there’s a huge potion of the dining public that thinks Spike Mendelsohn is ‘a great chef.’”
You can listen to Andrew’s whole podcast here (and, for the record, he made clear that he was very fond of Spike and meant no disrespect).