Wolfgang Puck’s New Spago Will Feature China From Alinea Designer Crucial Detail
It’s been a long, sad summer for Angelenos waiting for Wolfgang Puck’s Spago to reopen during its long-needed renovation. Soon, however, the restaurant will reopen not just with a completely new interior and menu — with all of the most popular dishes removed from it — but also with new dishes designed by Crucial Detail.
In a sneak peek at the new Spago, completely overhauled for its 30th anniversary, California Style learned that Martin Kastner, who runs the design firm that creates the plates and service pieces for restaurants such as Alinea, is designing Spago’s custom china. Does that mean more Portholes? (Please let this mean more Portholes.)
Jokes aside, Kastner’s portfolio of his custom pieces for restaurants, seen here, not only upends your conception of how food should be eaten, it also changes your mind on how food should look when it’s served: skewered on wires, nestled between chopsticks, even used as a dining centerpiece. (Our favorite: this juicer. How do you get that lime in there?!) Given that Spago’s old standbys, like his smoked salmon pizza with caviar, look pedestrian in comparison when plated, the fact that Crucial Detail is involved should send signals that this is going to be a completely new restaurant, and not the one that your aunt’s been going to for the past 30 years.